Shanghai, China - July 2002; I was one of the first Westerners to visit China after restrictions were lifted following the renunciation of the Cultural Revolution in 1980 and a cautious reopening of the country. Laowai (ghost men) as us folk were referred to - could still cause a sensation by just walking down the street. And everywhere you could see shouty Big-Character propaganda posters telling everyone is was their responsibility to be happy, smile, and boldly march into the future Communist utopia. I wonder what happened to that? You guessed it, it became a capitalist one-party police state. Hurrah!