EditorialA papaya drink and hot dogs with toppings like sauerkraut, onion, relish, chili and cheese at Papaya King in Manhattan, July 2, 2022. (Emon Hassan/The New York Times)
EditorialMusky Bilavarn makes thum mak hoong, the papaya salad dish that is a cornerstone of Lao cooking, at Kra Z Kai?s Laotian Barbeque in Corona, Calif., Feb. 17, 2022. (Damon Casarez/The New York Times)
EditorialLaurie Woolever, Anthony Bourdain's longtime assistant, outside Gray’s Papaya on Manhattan’s Upper West Side, which makes an appearance in “World Travel: An Irreverent Guide” by Bourdain and Woolever, April 1, 2021. (Karsten Moran/The New York Times)
EditorialLaurie Woolever, Anthony Bourdain's longtime assistant, outside Gray’s Papaya on Manhattan’s Upper West Side, which makes an appearance in “World Travel: An Irreverent Guide” by Bourdain and Woolever, April 1, 2021. (Karsten Moran/The New York Times)