EditorialJoshua Pinksy, the chef at the restaurant Claud, sprinkles whipped ricotta on his pistachio Bundt cake, which relies on a boxed pudding mix for its familiar flavor and airy texture, in New York, Jan. 4, 2023. (Colin Clark/The New York Times)
EditorialKiss Me pudding, that was passed down from the chef Nick Anderer's great-grandmother’s recipe box, at Anton's in New York, Jan. 7, 2020. (Jeenah Moon/The New York Times)