EditorialDiep Tran, a chef in Los Angeles, makes rice porridge for all at the Banh Chung Collective in Compton, Calif. on Jan. 14, 2023. (Joyce Kim/The New York Times)
EditorialBanh tet chien, rice cakes filled with pork belly and mung beans that practically melt into the rice, served at the Vietnamese restaurant Saigon Social in New York, June 30, 2022. (Lanna Apisukh/The New York Times)