EditorialSmoked oxtails, fried corn on the cob, sausage, ribs and brisket, left, with catfish and hush puppies served at Ray’s Real Pit BBQ Shack, in Houston in May 2023. (Jessica Attie/The New York Times)
EditorialSmoked oxtails, fried corn on the cob, sausage, ribs and brisket, left, with catfish and hush puppies served at Ray’s Real Pit BBQ Shack, in Houston in May 2023. (Jessica Attie/The New York Times)
EditorialSmoked oxtails, fried corn on the cob, sausage, ribs and brisket, left, with catfish and hush puppies served at Ray’s Real Pit BBQ Shack, in Houston in May 2023. (Jessica Attie/The New York Times)
EditorialSmoked oxtails, fried corn on the cob, sausage, ribs and brisket, left, with catfish and hush puppies served at Ray’s Real Pit BBQ Shack, in Houston in May 2023. (Jessica Attie/The New York Times)
EditorialSmoked oxtails, fried corn on the cob, sausage, ribs and brisket, left, with catfish and hush puppies served at Ray’s Real Pit BBQ Shack, in Houston in May 2023. (Jessica Attie/The New York Times)
EditorialSmoked oxtails, fried corn on the cob, sausage, ribs and brisket, left, with catfish and hush puppies served at Ray’s Real Pit BBQ Shack, in Houston in May 2023. (Jessica Attie/The New York Times)
EditorialSmoked oxtails, fried corn on the cob, sausage, ribs and brisket, left, with catfish and hush puppies served at Ray’s Real Pit BBQ Shack, in Houston in May 2023. (Jessica Attie/The New York Times)
EditorialSmoked oxtails, fried corn on the cob, sausage, ribs and brisket, left, with catfish and hush puppies served at Ray’s Real Pit BBQ Shack, in Houston in May 2023. (Jessica Attie/The New York Times)
EditorialSmoked oxtails, fried corn on the cob, sausage, ribs and brisket, left, with catfish and hush puppies served at Ray’s Real Pit BBQ Shack, in Houston in May 2023. (Jessica Attie/The New York Times)