EditorialPapaya King at its longstanding location on the corner of 86th Street and Third Avenue in New York, July 2, 2022. (Emon Hassan/The New York Times)
EditorialNeon on the wall pays tribute to the Thai mortar used to pound green papaya into submission, at Zaab Zaab in Elmhurst, Queens, June 20, 2022. (Adam Friedlander/The New York Times)