EditorialCarleen Goodridge, left, cooks with with her children, Elijah and Edaina at their home in Baltimore, Md. on Oct. 28, 2021. (Rosem Morton/The New York Times)
EditorialCarleen Hartman, the owner of Hartman Jerk Chicken, at her restaurant in downtown Wilkes-barre, Pa., April 3, 2021. (Jonno Rattman/The New York Times)