EditorialThe chef Yohei Matsuki butchers a side of tuna at Sushi Ginza Onodera in West Hollywood, Calif., Dec. 15, 2021. (Rozette Rago/The New York Times)
EditorialThe chef Yohei Matsuki butchers a side of tuna at Sushi Ginza Onodera in West Hollywood, Calif., Dec. 15, 2021. (Rozette Rago/The New York Times)