EditorialAmByth Estate, which does not irrigate as the owners hope it has enough ground water to get through the growing season, near Paso Robles, Calif. on Aug. 7, 2021. (Daniel Dreifuss/The New York Times)
EditorialAmByth Estate, which does not irrigate as the owners hope it has enough ground water to get through the growing season, near Paso Robles, Calif. on Aug. 7, 2021. (Daniel Dreifuss/The New York Times)